Sunday, December 7, 2008




Barcelona was a vibrant international festival for travellers and traders and i was touched not as strongly by the art but the place, getting a grasp on the context of spain and its people/artists. It seems the country has a real pride and faith in its artists, as i found it amazing to see how much creative freedom was given to antoni gaudi and all his city wide projects, as strange as they are. 
A day at the national gallery proved interesting as we were the only ones there it seemed, a few others roamed though usually they were security or clerks. much of the art was deeply religious, dark and pious, hundreds upon hundreds of  jesus'. thousands of strangefaced madonna and child statues, and the comical relics of catalan cathedrals from the pyronees mountains. It seemed the rest of the collection were the Bgrade works that the louvre or orsay didnt want, because after seeing those collections this one seemed dark and limited. 
The picasso museum was full to the brim of tourists and i was lost in the mazelike streets of barcelona, mesmerized by the religous fervour in the air on a friday, nativity scenes everywhere, lights and decorations on everything. 
i learned about picasso and his life in spain, the art school he went to, and more than appreciating specific works, i loved seeing his develoment through portraiture, realism, pointilist impressionism and fauvism, to see his works simply become simbols and he became the simbol of artistic freedom and pregression. i did not know he was a great portrait painter in his earlier years, or fantastic drawer. 
Did not get to the Miro or Dali institutes because i didnt have the time or money and its always hard which places i should visit, although i feel i got a grasp on what Barcelona had to offer. maybe i will go back on my way through and get to go to the dali institute, although at the moment my eyes are set on history and im calmed and awed by the great air of an old gothic cathderal stinking of beeswax and mouldy stone. Now, i sit in a busy cafe, which, looking around is not so busy, it just seems spanish like to be loud. one group are rowdy as the women aet gelato and the men lean on the bar sipping expressos. We arrived in Seville this morning after my companion got pickpocketed twice in a flustered last evening in barcelona and a well earned though stiff sleep on the train. Seville 'seviyyya' seems to be alive on a sunday! After checking into the hostel i roamed the streets, filled with locals in their sunday best, making there way in and out of cathedrals, the children dressed all the same and the clergy in cassoks herding people. i went into a cathedral, it was quiet and stragglers sit deep in prayer, a 4ft couple of elderly looking up at a bleeding christ, and a gold adorned and crowned mary, their gloves and hats in hands. Some people were going in and out of confession and i heard the subtle spanis whisperings. the city is full of churchbells and sundaybests, pious populace and immaculate conception festival posters and paraphernalia. I have never seen so many religous relics on sale from figurines to calenders and all kinds of poeple buying them. 
The men and women are dressed beautifully and their skin and hair is different from those in south america who are mixed with indian and black, their faces not yet familier to me, like the french became. This place looks like fun and full of orange trees and im exited to get some vitamin c and vitamin see. off exploring! 


1 comment:

Bim Ricketson said...

Speaking of religious relics - wait till you get to Italy, and Rome in particular. And at Christmas time! You may just convert!

Loving your posting Rose, great to know where you are and how you react to different cities.

Only thing I would say, is that it is very difficult to read white text on a black background! My eyes go funny after reading a few lines. Great for the pics, but hard to read! Black text on white is always easiest on the eye.

Looking forward to your next installment!

xB